Secrets of a good harvest!
Content:
Harvest secrets: We save pepper from cold weather.
Last summer it was very cold and I was left without a crop of peppers. At low temperatures I had problems growing these heat-loving crops, but I still managed to get my favorite pepper out, reveal its harvest secrets, and the pepper started to grow.
I did not start it, the fruits began to grow slowly. And I had the task of protecting the plants in the cold August nights, so that the peppers reach decent sizes and ripen.
Of course, at night, I always covered the bed with foil or old sheets. But it is best to cover the pepper with gauze, as condensation accumulates on it least of all, which can ruin the ovary.
In rainy weather, I always leave open areas along the edges of the garden so that unnecessary moisture evaporates. In order to protect the pepper from diseases such as late blight and fungus, the pepper must be examined very well and if you notice signs of the disease, then the affected areas must be removed and burned. So that the pepper does not grow, but in the harvest it must be pinned.
Secrets of the harvest: Whether to leave the tops of the potatoes.
In August, we usually already eat young potatoes, but we leave the varieties for winter storage to ripen for about a month more. In order for the tubers to receive sufficient nutrition, it is very important to keep the tops healthy for as long as possible.
It is difficult because just in the second half of summer late blight begins to rage. The main preventive measures are carried out in the fall, we remove all tops and weeds from the plots and be sure to burn them. It is advisable to hold the tubers in a weak solution of potassium permanganate before planting.
In the summer, it is important to provide the growing potatoes with freedom, therefore, weeding and hilling should be constantly carried out (these manipulations should be carried out every two weeks. We carry out foliar feeding, spray the tops, this will protect the tops from diseases and pests.
Promotes better growth and bursting of tubers. If the signs of phytophthora have already appeared, then you can spray the tops of copper with preparations, but not less than a month before harvesting.
King peas.
Ordinary gardeners plant peas in the spring, and collect young and tender spatulas in the middle of summer. I plant peas twice a season, I use the first sowing of peas for food and for conservation. The second is dry land for the winter.
For the second sowing in August, I usually use the seeds of the first harvest. For re-sowing peas, I choose the best and sugar varieties. Then I start preparing for planting, digging up the beds and bringing in half a bucket of compost and a half liter jar of the hall. Before planting, I put the seeds in gauze soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate, so they quickly germinate.
After the emergence of seedlings, I thin out the beds, and then regularly water the peas. I do not spend any additional fertilizing, late peas develop well, sometimes even better than in spring. The yield of the second sowing is usually much higher and of better quality.
Cabbage ovary.
A couple of years ago I faced such a problem, the cabbage grows very large leaves, and the forks do not form or remain very small. Having read a lot of gardening magazines and gained valuable experience.
In order for the cabbage to give an excellent harvest, I began to plant plants only in sunny, well-ventilated areas.The seedlings were located far from each other, this is important both for plant nutrition and for the prevention of diseases. When a very active growth of cabbage begins, I make the first complementary feeding, usually I feed the cabbage with mineral fertilizers.
The second and third time I feed the plants with organic matter (manure or chicken droppings). I feed the cabbage every 3-4 weeks. After I started following these tips, the cabbage heads started to tie and grow very well. An exception can only be in a rainy summer, when the cabbage does not have enough sunlight.
Have a nice harvest!