Repair strawberry
Content:
Lovers of this culture, in most cases, prefer remontant strawberry varieties. Repaired varieties differ in that they yield several times per season from each bush. You can enjoy the very first fruits already in mid-July. The end of summer is the time for large-scale ripening, up to 90% of fruiting occurs during this period. Another advantage of this species, it can be grown almost everywhere and under any conditions: pots, vases, on the balcony, and at home, fruiting can be achieved year-round.
The concept of remontant strawberries, the difference from other varieties
Remaining strawberries - what is this miracle? What is the difference from the usual garden strawberries, strawberries? By definition, remontability is the ability of plants to bloom and bear fruit up to 3-4 times a year. The first harvest ripened, harvested. New inflorescences are formed on the bushes, with this phenomenon the leaf system is very poorly developed, but the size of the fruits is very large.
Peculiarities
Some experienced gardeners may recommend sacrificing the very first crop by pruning the stalks as they form. What is it for? Someone just enjoys the harvest, eating it fresh, while someone grows it for making jam, freezing for the winter, for sale. It is by removing the first peduncles that you can preserve the strength of the plant for a second, more abundant, large harvest at the end of the summer season.
In general, remontant varieties of your favorite berries are suitable for growing not only on the site, but also on the balcony, in greenhouses. Even 3-4 bushes in pots can please with a sufficient amount of harvest, just for fresh consumption, and the presence of more pots with strawberries will make it possible to prepare a delicious treat for tea. One of the main features of remontant strawberries can be considered the ability to set fruits both on maternal and young plants. A large percentage of varieties are large-fruited, up to 0.1 kilograms. But the minus of such species is very rapid aging, for the next season the size of the fruits may decrease, as a result, the bushes often have to be rejuvenated. To achieve constant fruiting throughout the season, a combination of common varieties and remontant species is recommended.
Mustache and mustacheless varieties
Strawberry repair depends on the time when the buds are laid on the bushes. This period of time is called daylight hours. The budding of most varieties occurs in the autumn, when the length of daylight hours decreases. This is the difference between remontant varieties - buds are laid in them regardless of how long the daylight hours lasts. Staged strawberry care is calculated for the growing season with changes, specifically for remontant strawberries.
There are varieties of long daylight hours, in which the formation of buds occurs within 16 hours, the duration of daylight hours. The beginning of this process falls at the end of May - beginning of June. In the same period, ovaries begin to form. It is the varieties of this type that bring the crop at least twice a season, the first stage of fruiting is the end of June, the second is the last days of the summer period. Such varieties are called DSD.The second period of fruiting is the main one, up to 90% of the annual yield can be harvested during this period. But it must be borne in mind that the bushes must be adult and well-developed, strong. Do not forget about periodic renewal of the bushes, do not allow overgrowing with old ones, adding new ones. Remove without regret all obsolete greenery along with the roots. You can already harvest in mid-June, just plant a few bushes - KSD (short daylight hours). Buds are laid in such varieties in the fall, and therefore, in early spring, strawberries begin to develop in full force and in the middle of June - the harvest.
Adult bushes have a sufficient number of mustaches, so reproduction will not be very difficult. But, as is customary, the demand for such varieties is much less than for remontant ones. Remontant strawberries can be propagated by whiskers and seeds. Mustache propagation is the most common method. Harvest with this method can be obtained within 5-6 months after planting in the ground. Seed propagation of mustardless strawberries makes them less in demand. The process of growing such varieties is more laborious, but there are also advantages: increased resistance to pests and various diseases, and the bush itself looks very neat in the garden, does not grow to great splendor.
Repairing varieties: planting rules
The place for planting strawberries is chosen sunny, well-ventilated, open, always fertile soil, perfectly loosened. The best option would be to pre-sow seedlings in the last days of February or early March. After the threat of the return of frosts, severe cold snaps, at the end of May, seedlings can be planted for permanent residence. An important rule must be remembered: if the soil is prepared in the fall, then the harvest will be many times greater during the season. To prepare, add organic matter and mineral fertilizers to the soil, be sure to dig it to a depth.
Reproduction by whiskers, seeds, other ways
The use of antennae for reproduction and renewal is the way that helps preserve the full spectrum of useful properties of strawberries for a longer period. But the varieties of remontant strawberries reproduce not only with tendrils. There are varieties that do not have a mustache and the only way to get new young bushes is to plant seedlings. This method is rather complicated and laborious. It has its pros and cons, but, on the part of getting a good harvest, it is more profitable than breeding with a mustache. New, strong, healthy bushes grow in the greatest number.
For this type of remontant strawberry, like "Alpine" (beardless), propagation by seeds for seedlings is the only way of renewal. Having chosen seed propagation, you need to collect the healthiest, largest, sweetest fruits of the variety that you prefer for growing on your site. It is these berries that will serve as a source of good planting material. Carefully separate the seeds from the pulp and dry. Plant seedlings at the end of February. As mentioned above, remontant bushes have a minus - rapid aging, and reproduction by a mustache, for some gardeners, is more convenient, new bushes take root during the season, there are a lot of them. This method is much simpler, much effort is not required, nature itself helps. Old bushes are quickly replaced with new ones. But here, too, attention is needed, to leave no more than 2-3 rosettes, closer to the bush (mother). Excess antennae, weak in development, it is better to immediately remove, since excess vegetation, antennae interfere with the active development of a fruit-bearing bush, and fully use its strength.
Consider another, existing, but not common, breeding method - the division of adult bushes.They use it very carefully (the plant can be damaged when dividing or difficult to transfer), they use this method when material for planting is very urgently needed, but there is nowhere to take, get a mustache or seedlings - for a long time. Not all remontant varieties are able to take root with such reproduction, and if you decide, be sure to read the recommendations of experienced gardeners.
Transplant, care, watering, feeding, preparation for winter
The culture is in great need of enhanced care, since during the season it spends a lot of energy on abundant fruiting, which occurs at least twice during the growing season. Work begins early in the spring to ensure proper care of the bushes. As soon as the last snow cover melts. Obsolete mulch is removed, the beds must be carefully examined to exclude pests and diseases after wintering. The bare roots that appear must be spud. If the soil is dry, water it, loosen it well and again apply a layer of mulch consisting of sawdust around the bush.
Repaired varieties: watering
Garden strawberries, both remontant and simple varieties, love enough moisture in the soil. It is easy to determine the required amount of moisture - the top layer is always wet, but without water stagnation. In no case should it dry out and form a crust around the bush. Watering should not be carried out in a jet, preferably in grooves between each row. If watering is carried out from a hose, it is better to use a nozzle, forming a rain effect.
Transfer
If the varieties you have chosen are large-fruited, then it is advisable to transplant in the autumn. The frequency of renewal is 1-2 years, because the bushes are depleted during the period of abundant fruiting, the fruits become much smaller. Periodic transplants can also prevent the appearance of various pests. The transplantation process, according to the advice of experienced gardeners, is recommended to start at the end of August, in extreme cases, the beginning of September. Then young bushes will adapt much better to a new place and wintering will take place without complications. The actions themselves are not so difficult: the soil is dug at a depth of about the size of a shovel, all old residues, foliage, etc. fertilize the soil with a bucket of humus, adding 30 grams of phosphorus fertilizer per square meter. Use a rake to bore through, and leave the site in this form for two weeks. Determine the location of the bushes, make small holes, about 15-20 cm, place the bushes in the holes, sprinkle with soil, sprinkle each bush with soil around. Completely mulch the bed with sawdust. After all the process done, it is imperative to shed the entire garden with transplanted plants abundantly.
Top dressing
After rich fruiting, a lot of energy is spent and the plant is depleted. This situation can be corrected by applying top dressing, preferably in liquid form. Suitable: urea, slurry, bird droppings. The first stage of feeding begins in early June, before the flowering process. For one square meter, we spend 10 liters of the taken top dressing.
Preparing for winter
We begin to prepare the plants for wintering, it is imperative to cut each bush almost to the root to destroy all dry cover and exclude the presence of pests and diseases. Carry out a thorough mulching with dry but healthy leaves, peat, straw. Such a reliable layer will help keep your plantings from freezing during cold winters, which will later reward you with a bountiful harvest. ADI varieties are very susceptible to frost, hence most of the harvest can be lost. If you know that frosts will be early in this season, it is better to use a covering material, such as polyethylene, preferably spunbond. Crops can be watered even when covered.
Repairing varieties in the open field
The agricultural technology of the remontant varieties is a little more special than that of simple garden strawberries.The quality of the soil should be one level higher, since the culture is more sensitive to the presence of certain elements. Due to the short life span of fruiting bushes, no more than 2-3 years, you can provide the necessary nutrition. It is also necessary to approach the neighbors of remontant strawberries carefully: peas, garlic, carrots, will become wonderful neighbors, unlike potatoes and peppers. Garlic planted between the rows will save your good harvest from snails and slugs.
The most popular remontant varieties
Briefly about recommended, proven, popular varieties.
1) Albion - very resistant to diseases, quite calmly reacts to temperature changes and prolonged drought, fruits are red, very bright in color, weighing 50-60 grams;
2) Lyubava - is a neat small bushes, very few mustache, small berries, red, pronounced color of the fruit, formed completely on each bush, not only on young ones;
3) Queen Elizabeth - differs in rather large fruits, antennae in a single version, not long, red-raspberry berries, sweet-sour taste;
4) Vima Rina - a small bush, red fruits, a distinctive feature of a light green foliage. Like any crop, there are hybrid varieties that are grown preferable in greenhouses, on the balcony.
Doesn't it bloom? Doesn't bear fruit? Causes
Every gardener may have a problem when the culture seems to be healthy, it greens beautifully, blooms, but no fruits are observed. What to do in this case? In fact, there can be many reasons, but we will analyze the most common:
1) the plant has outlived its fruiting period, it has simply grown old. Degeneration occurs already in the third year of the life of the bush and it ceases to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit. As a solution, a mandatory update;
2) you carried out the autumn transplant much later than recommended, the plant did not strengthen and severe winter frosts damaged the culture. Or the plant still bloomed, and there were even fruits, but much smaller and more sour in taste;
4) when planting in a new place, you buried the bushes very deeply, which also led to an increased decrease in yield;
5) nitrogenous fertilizing is very important for strawberries and their lack has also led to poor leaf cover development. As a way out, you can apply a solution of ammonia in proportion to water, regularly watering the beds;
6) the berry likes a sufficient amount of sunny color. Its deficiency also leads to a weakening of the plant, as a result, the yield decreases;
7) unaccounted for, late frosts at the end of May. Of course, it is better at this time to use a covering material, a film.
Repairing strawberry varieties on the balcony
Those who love to grow sweet, aromatic, healthy and simply delicious berries on the balcony can enjoy the harvest all year round. Renovation varieties are great for this. Even a small number of bushes will delight you with the abundance of the harvest. You can choose special varieties, curly, with large fruits. And what a beautiful view such bushes have, a wonderful decoration of the balcony.
You can grow strawberries this way. Sow seedlings with seeds using a ready-made nutrient mixture, although you can prepare it yourself. At the stage of a pair of leaves, dive. After the bushes have grown stronger, they can be placed in boxes, pots, baskets. On the issue of care - all the same technologies as with conventional cultivation in soil. If the balcony is glazed, insulated, then there is no need to remove the bushes for the winter in the warmth. Periodic, moderate watering during the period when the plant is resting and gaining strength for the next fruiting. Top dressing during this period is excluded.
Strawberry diseases
Among the common diseases of strawberries, we single out: powdery mildew, white, gray, black rot, mosaic. The presence of insect pests is no less problematic.For example, aphids, weevils, ants, spider mites. Prevention is the best, proven way to deal with all emerging problems: it is imperative to remove obsolete leaves, mustaches (if any), regular transplantation, loosening, adherence to the level of moisture in the soil.