Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse according to the phases of development - fertilization, schemes
Content:
In greenhouse conditions, tomatoes grow and develop for a fairly long time. In greenhouses and greenhouses, mid-ripening, late-ripening, high-growth varieties grow. Top dressing of tomatoes in a greenhouse is necessary for the full development of plants, a good and long-term harvest.
Fertilizing tomatoes in a greenhouse - what fertilizers?
Groups of greenhouse fertilizers for tomatoes:
- Organic (compost, humus),
- Mineral (superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea, ammonium nitrate, nitroammofoska, calcium nitrate),
- Organomineral (a mixture of humus and minerals; brands: OMU, Forte, Florizel).
- There are also drugs that stimulate the formation of roots, fruits, growth, antistress stimulants (Energen, Ovary, Bud, Zircon).
Fertilizers from each category are required to grow tall and tall tomatoes. If you apply fertilizers just before planting, then do not expect a good harvest, a maximum of one or two kilograms per bush will turn out. For the best effect, a gorgeous harvest, for 100% productive use of greenhouse conditions, so that as many cucumbers as possible grow on each meter, you need to apply these fertilizers not only before planting, but also feed the plants regularly in the system.
Preparing the soil before planting
Before planting, a bucket of organic fertilizer (humus / compost) is introduced into the soil per 1m2 (contains nitrogen, contributes to loosening the soil), replacement (if there is no organic matter) - 1 tablespoon of urea or ammonium nitrate; 2 glasses of wood ash (contains P, K, trace elements), replacement - 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
Another way: 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska per 1 m2. To loosen the soil, add dry grass, stale sawdust, leaves from last year.
Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse by development phase, dosage
Stages of tomato development: growing green mass, flowering and fruit setting, filling and ripening tomatoes. At each stage, the amount of fertilization is changed.
Growing season
At this time, feeding is not needed, since the soil is already fertilized. For a week, the plant will take root, adapt, the part of the seedling that is above the ground will slow down its development. The shoots of the leaves will make it clear that rooting was successful, and the roots began to get nutrients from the soil, introduced in advance.
At this time, in no case should you overfeed the seedlings. We are not rushing to feed the plant with organic fertilizers: the stems will begin to become thick, the leaves are juicy, the bushes will feel so good that they will forget why they were planted at all.
An excess of nitrogen, at best, will slow down the flowering and fruit setting, at worst - the tops will become fat, and the tomatoes will be small.
Do not forget that the goal of this stage is to accelerate the development of fruits, increase productivity indicators, for this you need rooting, but faster and better. What will help: when we plant the plants, use Kornevin or Roots (Alliance, Clean Leaf), sprinkle the leaves with a growth stimulator (Epin, Energen).
This is the top dressing at the first stage. Micro- and macroelements, amino acids, vitamins, growth hormones are in these preparations. The main thing is to act strictly following the instructions.
Flowering period
A popular mistake of most gardeners at this stage is to rush to feed the seedlings. There is no need to rush into this.You need to wait 1-2 weeks for even flowering seedlings to adapt to new conditions and start tying new tassels. During this period of time, tomatoes that have not yet bloomed are just suitable, they will just begin to give inflorescences. It is worth starting to feed tomatoes during mass flowering.
Fruiting
At the stage of fruiting, plants need potassium, the flowers should become ovaries, potassium just helps to distribute nutrients to the organs of the plant, thereby ensuring the filling of fruits.
But there is one "but": the growing body needs the entire mineral complex, since potassium "steals" nitrogen, phosphorus and other important trace elements from the stem and leaves. The stem becomes thin, the leaves are small, since all the nutrients are given to the fruit. Therefore, phosphorus and nitrogen should be, but still more potassium is needed in comparison with them (in% ratio).
The opinion of an experienced gardener:
I am not against herbal infusions and dissolved bird droppings, I even feed them potatoes, but this is not constant. No one knows the ratio of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium in them. When the concentration is reduced by two to three times, the nitrogen in the solution will still prevail over the amount of potassium. You can, of course, add ash and potassium, but this is provided that there are already nutrients in the solution. But how many of these elements are there is unknown. In order not to get worn out by measuring the ratios of trace elements, how much nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium in percentages, I recommend going to a gardener's store and choosing fertilizers. Balanced mixtures are inexpensive (from forty rubles), the bottle serves the whole season. I bought, applied, was stunned by the effect, and mullein, droppings, nettles quickly faded into the background. The names of the preparations: Fertika, BioHumus, Florizel for tomatoes, BioMaster (universal).
There is also a substitute for mixtures if there is no money for store drugs. You need to take 10 liters of water and mineral fertilizers. Dosages: potassium salt, except for chloride - 20 g; superphosphate - 10 g; urea or ammonium nitrate - 7-10 g. Dissolve superphosphate in hot water. For a more complete diet, 1 glass of wood ash is poured into the bucket and watered until it settles. Dosage: 10 l / 1 m2 (divided equally between the bushes of this area).
During this period, foliar feeding with boric acid is given - 1.5-2 g / 10 l of water. Or use the preparations "Ovary", "Bud". Dosage: completely wet the sheet.
Period after tying
Flowering and tying does not appear on tomatoes all at once, but measuredly, gradually, it all depends on how the stem grows. In order for the fruits to form and to be poured, you need two or more top dressing (depending on the length of the season and the build-up of green mass). It is necessary to repeat feeding with a predominant percentage of potassium when 2 brushes appear on a larger number of bushes, and the ovaries become larger (feed at the root).
When the fruits are already growing actively, you can add calcium nitrate / calcium nitrate (20 g / 10 l). Calcium is an important element of the system, it transports nutrients to the organs of the plant, paving pathways for substances. If calcium is lacking, then the price of any feeding. Calcium is added separately from other mixtures. In combination with other mixtures, calcium forms a precipitate that does not dissolve.
Therefore, first of all, we feed the plants with complex fertilizer, only the next day with calcium. Or choose the opposite option. Spraying can be carried out, the dosage of which is 15 g / 10 l.
Ripening period
When the tomatoes ripen, the lower brushes are still blooming, the upper ones form ovaries and the fruits are poured. Every 7-14 days we check the "health" of the bushes. If the stems are good, fleshy, the leaves are bright green, nothing becomes smaller, you can no longer feed. And if the opposite is true: the stem does not grow, the leaves fade, filling inhibited, then you need to feed the plant.
Depending on the variety, different nutritional requirements are manifested. For high-yield varieties with a lot of fruit hanging, you need more nutrients (feed every 7-10 days). For lean varieties, the ovary of which is 2-3 brushes, 1-2 dressings are enough for the whole season.
Symptoms by which you can understand what the plant lacks
Need feeding: with a lack of nitrogen (the lower leaves turn yellow and begin to fall off), urea will save, a solution of 25 g / 10 l of water;
with a lack of potassium (a drying yellow edge on the leaves), potassium sulfate is needed, the same measure as with a lack of nitrogen;
with a phosphorus deficiency (the leaves on the back turn purple), superphosphate is added, dosage 15-20 g / 10 l of water.
You will notice the effect of the added dressings after 7 days.
Foliar feeding of tomatoes in the greenhouse
Trace elements are usually applied by foliar method. Tomatoes also need Mn, I, Fe, Cu. Everything is selected in mineral mixtures for tomatoes ("Red Giant", "BioHumus", "BioMaster", "Clean Sheet"). Be sure to read the instructions for use.
It is better not to get carried away with tomato foliar dressing. Spray in case of emergency (when it is cold, the soil temperature drops to + 10-13 °, when the roots cannot get nutrients from the soil). When the leaves are wetted, a wonderful environment is created for the development of fungal diseases. Root dressing will always have an advantage over spraying.
Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse - video
Summing up the above, we conclude: feeding is easy, but the main rule is not to overdo it with organic fertilizers and nitrogen. For tomatoes, top dressing is applied only before planting. Then we use fertilizer complexes, observing the recipe and monitoring the condition of the bushes. Use these recommendations, and a rich harvest is guaranteed.