How to get rid of aphids
Content:
Aphid control
Aphids are one of the most common garden pests (however, not only garden ones, aphids can even infect indoor flowers), which can cause significant harm to various plantings, from trees and shrubs to roses and chrysanthemums. As a result of the vital activity of these uninvited guests, the leaves and shoots of plants are deformed, and then completely wither, since the aphid feeds on plant juices. In parts of plants attacked by aphids, various infectious and fungal diseases begin to develop, the general "immunity" of plants decreases, which negatively affects their readiness for winter, and also leads to a decrease in the amount of harvested crop. Fighting aphids in the garden is a must.
Common signs of aphids in your area
Aphids are almost omnivorous pests, although some of its species prefer specific types of plants, for example, there are species that prefer to feed on the leaves and shoots of chrysanthemums, or melons. But in general, if there is no "favorite" food, the aphid is content with other plants.
Due to the fact that aphids are a very small insect, living, as a rule, on the back of the leaves, it is often possible to notice its appearance in your summer cottage even when its colonies have reached large sizes and the plants are already significantly damaged. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out a visual inspection of plants in your garden more often, paying attention to the presence of the following signs indicating the presence of aphids:
1) the presence of small light scales on plants (skin discarded by aphids)
2) sticky liquid on the leaves and (or) buds of plants (a special secret secreted by aphids)
3) deformation, twisting inward, of leaves, non-opening buds, non-developing fruits.
Green aphids are most common in summer cottages, but representatives of black color can also be found, they mainly affect field plants, as well as legumes.
Aphid control: preventive measures
As with any disease or pest, it is always easier to prevent than to cure, as they say. What measures can gardeners take on their site to prevent the appearance of such an unpleasant guest?
1. Control the ant populations at the summer cottage (remove anthills away from plantings, scare off ants). Aphids and ants live in close relationship, since the latter feed on the secretion secreted by the aphids. Ants even "cultivate" aphids in a special way, protecting their colonies from insects that can harm them.
2. Carefully conduct a pre-planting inspection of newly acquired plants for the presence of aphid infestation (as well as other diseases). Do not plant damaged plants in your area, several insects may eventually turn into whole colonies.
3. Attract insects that can control aphid numbers. For example, sprinkling sawdust on garden paths and flower beds will attract aphid-killing earwigs.
4. Plant onions, garlic, lavender, thyme near plants that need protection from aphids. These representatives of the flora are able to scare off aphids.
Aphid control measures
If, however, it was not possible to prevent the excessive spread of aphids on the site, then the most effective methods of control would be the use of insecticides.
Aphid control: basic chemicals
To obtain a guaranteed result, without harming plants and the environment, it is necessary to choose the right poisonous agent.
All drugs intended for the destruction of aphids are divided into two groups, based on the method of their effect on the pest:
1) preparations of the contact group destroy insects when a toxic substance enters the respiratory or digestive system;
2) systemic agents, acting through plants, eating which, insects receive a dose of a toxic substance.
Currently, the following main types of insecticides are used to control aphids in summer cottages.
"Aktara" (analogue "Agravertine")
Biological preparation of the middle class of danger, capable of completely freeing the site not only from aphids, but also from a number of other uninvited guests (ticks, beetles, moths) in 2 days. The drug is in the form of an emulsion, which is diluted with water. The disadvantage of this drug is that it also has a toxic effect on bees. Therefore, you should not use it in apiaries, and it is also necessary to process plants in the late evening, when there are practically no bees.
Spark "Double Effect"
The contact agent, its active ingredients are cypermethrin and permethrin. It affects the central nervous system of pests (not only aphids, but also others), which ultimately leads to the death of the insect. Foma release - tablets that are diluted with water. More about the drug here.
"Commander"
A highly toxic agent for most insects (including bees), intended both for processing leaves and shoots of plants, and for cultivating the land. The main active ingredient is imidacloprid, the form of release is a concentrate that is diluted with water. Protects plants for 1.5 months after treatment.
Fitoverm
Biological preparation, its action is based on the properties of the soil fungus. Has a damaging effect on aphids, as well as various mites, causing paralysis, and then the death of insects. This product can be successfully used to combat aphids on indoor plants.
"Fufanon" (the main analogue of "Karbofos")
The active ingredients are various organic phosphorus compounds. It is used to combat not only aphids, but also other flying and crawling pests. The main limitation in use is that you need to process the plants about 20 days before harvesting.
"Tanrek"
The active ingredient is imidacloprid. It also protects against the appearance of the next generation of insects for up to 1 month (depending on the amount of precipitation).
Fighting aphids: folk remedies
In addition to chemical pest control, there are also many proven "old-fashioned" recipes that can be applied without fear of causing any significant damage to the plant, crop, or neighboring insects.
Laundry or tar soap. 300g of laundry soap (you can take liquid soap, reducing its amount by half) dilute in a garden watering can of water, treat the affected plants with the resulting solution. In the case of using tar soap, the technology is the same, only the amount of soap is 100g.
Wood ash. For 10 liters. water take 300 g of ash, boil for 30 minutes. A little soap is added to the resulting solution so that the solution lingers on the leaves and shoots, and the plants are treated.
Garlic. About 200 g of garlic is turned into gruel, a liter of water is added and left to infuse in a dark place for 5 days. The finished solution is diluted in a ratio of 25 ml per garden watering can (high concentrations can leave burns on plants).
Horse sorrel. 400gr. the roots of horse sorrel are poured with water, brought to a boil, and then infused for 3 hours.
Citrus. Any citrus peel will do. A liter of warm (not hot) water is added to 100 g of crusts and insisted in a dark place for 3 days. The resulting solution is suitable for the treatment of all plants.
Potato tops. 1kg of healthy, not damaged by any pests or diseases, potato tops are crushed and 10 liters of water are added. Insist 3 hours. You can also use dried tops, then the amount must be reduced by 2 times.
Tobacco leaves. By 200gr. tobacco leaves add 5 liters of water and leave for 4 days. Then the same amount of water is added, the solution is filtered and the affected plants are treated.
Alternative control measures
To combat aphids, you can also use mechanical means of control: collect pests by hand, or wash them off with a pressure of water. However, these methods do not protect plants from the emergence of new pests, destroying only the detected specimens.
Plants planted in the summer cottage such as Dalmatian chamomile, garlic, onions tend to scare away aphids from nearby territories. And planted nettles, or fragrant spicy herbs attract birds that will enjoy aphids, as well as insects, whose "menu" also includes aphids (for example, ladybugs, lacewings). Some beneficial insects are now sold in specialized stores. Their larvae are released into the area, they grow, reproduce and begin pest control in your garden. Unfortunately, the number of these insects is not always sufficient to control the pest population.
You can also use the method of diverting the attention of pests to certain plants. To do this, crops such as nasturtium, begonia, sleeping poppy are specially planted in the gardens, among trees and shrubs - lime and viburnum. These plants should be planted at a considerable distance from those crops that need special protection from pests, since they concentrate the attention of aphids. In places of such a mass concentration, pests will be easier to destroy.
Birds such as sparrows, titmice, beetles, robins are of great help in the fight against aphids. Often they themselves pay attention to the excessive number of aphids on the site, but sometimes they need to be additionally attracted by installing special feeders.
At the same time, do not forget that these small birds also feed on various berries and fruits, which can result in the loss of part of the crop.
Fighting aphids at home
As mentioned above, aphids harm not only in open areas, but also at home, settling on indoor plants. The use of toxic substances at home is very limited, and the main method of struggle is the use of a soap solution, as well as the treatment of affected plants with any vegetable oil. Such methods, although they do not protect crops from further damage by pests, but with a high degree of efficiency, get rid of existing representatives, through the action of the resulting sticky and thick solutions on their respiratory system.
At home, the treatment of plants with medical alcohol also shows good results. It has a high evaporation rate, which does not lead to plant burns. However, it is not recommended to use rubbing alcohol to protect crops with too sensitive foliage.
Subject to certain safety measures, it is also possible to use some at home, especially biological insecticides (for example, "Aktara"). These measures will not only eliminate pests, but will also provide further protection of plants from the emergence of new pests.