Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are not just a plant, this flower with a thousand-year history is credited with a special attitude of the emperors and a mention in the treatises of ancient philosophers. So, in Japan there is a legend according to which only representatives of the imperial house could wear clothes with an image of a chrysanthemum on it. Until now, the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum is a sign of the imperial family and is depicted on the emperor's standard. And the highest award in Japan is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum. In addition, every year the Japanese celebrate the now traditional holiday - "Chrysanthemum Day". In China, chrysanthemum is used in folk medicine to treat headaches, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and improve the functioning of the cardiovascular system. It should be noted that for the inhabitants of the East, chrysanthemum symbolizes longevity, well-being and is one of the most revered plants. Europeans, on the other hand, value chrysanthemum for its high decorative effect. The plant was introduced to Europe in the 17th century, and became widespread in horticultural culture only in the 18th century. After another century, the chrysanthemum appeared in Russia and since then has firmly established itself in the gardens. And the potted species bred by breeders allow you to grow chrysanthemums at home.

Chrysanthemums - description and characteristics

Photo of chrysanthemum Anastasia Green

Of the huge number of species of chrysanthemums, the most demanded, nevertheless, is the garden chrysanthemum. Disputes about its origin do not subside to this day. According to some experts, this species was obtained by crossing small-flowered and large-flowered chrysanthemums, others believe that it was derived from Indian small-flowered chrysanthemums and Chinese chrysanthemums.

Among the species of chrysanthemums, you can find both annual plants and perennials. Some develop as shrubs, others as herbaceous plants. Branched stems, depending on the species, are naked or pubescent. The leaves are completely different in shape, size and color, from gray-green to deep dark green in color. Inflorescence type - basket. In some species, its diameter can be quite large. The basket is formed by several hundred marginal ligulate and middle tubular flowers. The inflorescences of terry chrysanthemums, which look especially decorative, consist only of reed flowers. In semi-double inflorescences, reed petals predominate, but middle flowers are also present. Depending on the diameter of the baskets, chrysanthemums are small-flowered and large-flowered. The latter include plants, the diameter of the baskets of which is from 10 to 25 cm, and those less than 10 cm are small-flowered. The fruit is achene. Basically, the seeds are set in tubular flowers, in large reed inflorescences the number of seeds is small, and double seeds do not form at all.

Chrysanthemums: growing

Zembla Lilak photo

• Seed method.

Chrysanthemum is easy enough to propagate by dividing the bush or cuttings. However, experienced gardeners often resort to such breeding methods, while most prefer to grow chrysanthemums from seeds. Seed propagation is suitable for both annuals and perennials. In late May - early June, when the night frosts have passed, you can start sowing seeds in the ground. The land in the selected area must be dug up and loosened. Next, make the landing pits at a distance of at least 20 cm from each other. The holes must be shed, and then placed in each of them 2, 3 seeds.Then the pits are covered with soil and the crops are covered with a film or special material. Such a shelter will help preserve soil moisture and heat. You can remove it as soon as shoots appear on the surface. Also, in the garden it is necessary to remove all weeds, because they grow much more actively, taking away moisture, nutrients from young plants and blocking out the light. After about one and a half, two weeks, top dressing is applied using ready-made vitamin and mineral complexes. And when the seedlings reach 8-10 cm, they can be thinned out, left in each hole one of the strongest and strongest plant, which has at least three or four true leaves. Plants removed from the planting holes can be found in another planting site. Seed-grown chrysanthemums usually start blooming in August.

And to speed up the appearance of flowers, chrysanthemums can be grown in seedlings.

• Seedling method.

To grow chrysanthemum seedlings, it is necessary to prepare small-sized boxes or other containers and a high-quality substrate consisting of peat, humus and soil. All of the specified components are taken one piece at a time. If it is not possible to compose the substrate yourself, you can purchase a ready-made soil mixture. As a prevention of the appearance of root rot, as well as insect pests, both purchased soil and self-compiled substrate must be disinfected. Usually, the soil is sieved, removing pebbles or debris of twigs, which will prevent the germination of seedlings, and then ignited. The optimum temperature for calcining the soil is at least 110 degrees. In addition, it will not hurt to spill the soil with a solution of a biological fungicide. A drainage layer is poured into the seedling container, and then the treated soil. Seed material is spread over the soil surface. At the same time, the seeds of perennial plants are slightly pressed into the ground without sprinkling with soil, and the seeds of annuals are covered with a soil mixture with a layer of no more than half a centimeter. Next, the crops are watered with water at room temperature, the seedling container is covered with glass or film and left in a room with an air temperature of at least + 23 degrees. You should regularly ventilate crops and monitor moderate soil moisture.

After two weeks, the first shoots will appear on the surface of the soil. At this time, it is important to prevent the seedlings from pulling out, so the containers should be rearranged in a well-lit place. Experts do not advise to immediately remove the shelter, the plants must be given the opportunity, at least for two or three days, to adapt to the new conditions. First, the shelter is removed for an hour or two, the next day this time is increased, and on the third day the film or glass is completely removed.

If there are too many seedlings, then it is better to thin them out, otherwise, they simply will not allow each other to develop normally. With the appearance of two or four true leaves, the plants dive, transplanting them into separate containers. This must be done very carefully, trying not to damage the root system. For the same purposes, before the start of the transplant, the container with the seedlings is well watered. The transplanted plants also need to be watered with the addition of root stimulants.

The optimum temperature for growing young plants is +16 + 18 degrees. Soil moisture should be moderate. Waterlogging can lead to rotting of seedlings, and too much drying out of the soil will lead to thinning of the stems and death of plants. Top dressing must be applied at least once every two weeks. For fertilizing seedlings, ready-made complexes of mineral fertilizers are suitable, which can be purchased at any specialized store. As already noted, good lighting is important during this period. Therefore, if it is not possible to place seedlings in a lighted place, it will be necessary to supplement the illumination of the plants using special lamps.It is not worth waiting for active growth, since the chrysanthemum seedlings grow rather slowly.

Seedlings are planted after the establishment of warm weather and positive night temperatures. In most regions, this weather is typical for late May - early June. When planting seedlings before winter, it is better to do this no later than a month before the first expected frosts.

When deciding on a site for planting chrysanthemums, it should be borne in mind that this is a very light-loving plant. So, for normal growth, development and active flowering, the chrysanthemum should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours. In addition, it should be remembered that the chrysanthemum root system instantly reacts to stagnant moisture. The plant will begin to see before our eyes and, in the future, may die. Therefore, the soil on the site must be loose and water-absorbing. It is better to refuse from growing chrysanthemums in the lowlands. Also, it should be remembered that the introduction of an excessive amount of organic and mineral fertilizers will contribute to the active growth of green mass, but will negatively affect the duration and splendor of flowering.

For planting seedlings, experts advise choosing cloudy, rainy weather. It is much more convenient to plant bushes not in holes, but in small trenches at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. Before starting planting, you should familiarize yourself with the proposed planting scheme for seedlings, since it takes into account the characteristics of a particular variety or species. In order for young plants to adapt and take root faster, drugs that stimulate root formation are added to the irrigation water. For a more lush and decorative look in the future, immediately after planting the plants, pinch the growing point. Then the bushes are covered with a special material. Thus, they will be provided with an optimal microclimate for fast rooting. As soon as the seedlings get stronger, and there are signs of their growth, the shelter is removed.

• Cuttings

Chrysanthemum can also be propagated by cuttings. The air temperature for harvesting cuttings should be at least + 21 degrees. In the southern regions, the air warms up to the set value already at the beginning of spring, and in areas with a temperate climate closer to mid-May, early June. Cuttings are cut with a well-sharpened, disinfected tool. It is important to remember that cuttings are cut from stems growing from the base; lateral shoots are not used for these purposes. The length of the stalk should be 6-8 cm. The cut must be made oblique, retreating from the kidney, literally, by half a centimeter. The lower cut of the cutting can be slightly dusted with a rooting stimulator and start planting in a container. In this case, the cutting should be placed at an acute angle, approximately 45 degrees. In this case, the area of ​​contact of the cutting with the soil will be larger, respectively, more roots are formed and the cutting will grow faster. In addition, a layer of sand is poured over the substrate, it is in it that the lower cut of the cutting should be located, it is not necessary to bury it into the substrate itself. Then, containers with cuttings are transferred to a room with a constant temperature of + 14 ... + 18 degrees and good lighting. Subject to these conditions, as well as maintaining moderate soil moisture, the cuttings will take root in two or three weeks, after which they can be planted in open ground.

Chrysanthemums: care

Tom Pierce photo

Chrysanthemum care is not difficult. However, in order for the plant to please the eye with long and beautiful flowering, some recommendations must be followed.

So, in order to increase the decorative appearance of the plant, it is advised to carry out several pinching. For the first time, a plant planted in the ground is pinched at the stage of the appearance of the eighth true leaf. Then, after a while, the lateral processes formed by the plant are pinched.These actions will stimulate the growth of green mass, as a result, the bush will look very impressive and elegant, especially during flowering. The pinching of large-flowered varieties is carried out in a slightly different way. It is necessary to cut off most of the lateral processes, leaving, literally, 2-3 of the most powerful stems. In addition, tall and large-flowered varieties need support. For these purposes, pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the bush, they can be wooden or metal, and a wire, rope or cord is pulled between them. Such support will not allow the bush to disintegrate, and the planting of chrysanthemums will always look well-groomed and neat.

Watering chrysanthemums should be regular, because, with a lack of moisture, the shoots begin to woody, the flowers become smaller and become less bright. For irrigation, it is recommended to use rain or settled water with the addition of a couple of drops of ammonia. Watering is carried out under the bush, trying to prevent water from getting on the leaves and inflorescences. After, the soil needs to be loosened and weeds removed. To prevent the soil from drying out, the trunk circle can be mulched. In addition to preserving soil moisture, this will also prevent the germination of weeds.

For proper growth and development, chrysanthemum needs additional feeding. During the season, fertilizers are applied three times, alternating mineral and organic substances. The first feeding occurs at the beginning of the growing season. At this stage, the plants are fertilized with nitrogen-containing complexes, which will contribute to the active growth of green mass. Then, after 3, 4 weeks, organic fertilizers can be applied. Further, the chrysanthemum is fed during the period of bud formation, using phosphate-potassium fertilizers. Experts advise feeding in a liquid form, because in this case the plants absorb nutrients faster than when using granular or powdery products. Organic fertilizers should be used with caution, so as not to burn the roots of the plant, only well-rotted manure or droppings are applied. Gardeners with extensive experience in growing chrysanthemums note that it is not worth overfeeding this plant; moderation should be observed when feeding.

Perennial chrysanthemums require a transplant every three years. The fact is that over time, the quality of the soil deteriorates, the nutrients are washed out, which accordingly affects the plant - the chrysanthemum is more often sick, the inflorescences become smaller. As a rule, the transplant is carried out in the spring, carefully digging up the bush and replanting it to a new place. Simultaneously with the transplant, you can divide the bush, thereby obtaining additional planting material. It should be remembered that each new division must have developed shoots and a root system. The division of the bush is carried out only with a well-sharpened and disinfected tool.

Caring for the plant also includes activities related to the preparation of chrysanthemums for the winter period. During September, the last top dressing is applied, this is necessary so that the bushes can more easily endure the cold. For these purposes, ready-made solutions of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are suitable. As soon as the first frosts pass, the plant is pruned, leaving a part of the stem no more than 15 cm high. Further, the plant is spudded, and the near-stem circle is mulched with dry foliage or grass. At the same time, the thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 30 cm. In regions with cold winters and not large amounts of precipitation, spruce branches are additionally laid on top of the mulch. Experts do not advise using film and other materials that interfere with air exchange for shelter.

It should be noted that the most decorative large-flowered varieties do not tolerate the cold winters typical of most regions. To preserve the plants, they are dug out of the ground and, together with a lump of earth, are transplanted into a large container.Gardeners recommend using wooden boxes for these purposes. The chrysanthemum transplanted in this way is brought into the room, where the temperature regime should be + 2 ... + 7 degrees, and the humidity level should correspond to 80%. In addition, the room should be well lit. In the future, it is important to ensure that the soil in the container is always slightly damp. Abundant and regular watering is not required at this time. In addition, the low temperature and rather high humidity in the room will contribute to the preservation of soil moisture.

Some gardeners keep the plants, dug out together with the earthen clod, on the cellar floor, where the air temperature is + 1 ... + 4 degrees.

There is another option for preserving chrysanthemums in winter. This method is not very common, but if it is impossible to store plants indoors, then it is quite possible to use it. A trench is dug at the site, at least half a meter deep, the dug chrysanthemum bushes are laid in it, and the distance formed between them is covered with soil. In this state, the trenches should be left until the first frost in order to get rid of various diseases and infectious agents. As soon as the first frosts have passed, it is necessary to cover the trench with boards, plywood or other improvised material. Pour dry grass, foliage, and then a layer of soil on top of such a shelter.

Practicing gardeners note the good winter hardiness of small-flowered chrysanthemums, as well as varieties bred by Russian breeders. Large-flowered chrysanthemums, most of which are foreign hybrids, should not be left outdoors for the winter.

Diseases and pests of plants

Golden fleece photo

As a rule, the factors provoking diseases, infection of plants with various infections, is non-observance of agricultural techniques for growing chrysanthemums and the rules of caring for it.

Consider the diseases that quite often affect this flower culture.

Verticillary wilting is the result of damage to plants by pathogenic microorganisms. Getting into the roots, and then into the plant's conducting system, they lead to the death of the chrysanthemum. External signs of this disease are wilting, as well as the following yellowing of foliage and stems. It should be noted that this is a rather serious disease. Its pathogen can be in the soil for years and appear after a few years. This disease is especially dangerous for young plants, since, in most cases, it is fraught with their death. When verticillary wilting appears, it is important to carry out preventive measures throughout the entire area, and in the next season, if possible, abandon sowing work and regularly dig up the soil, with the introduction of antifungal drugs and organic fertilizers.

Often a white bloom can be seen on the plant, covering absolutely all parts of the plant. Most likely, the reason for its appearance is powdery mildew. But the presence of brown spots on the plant indicates the defeat of the chrysanthemum rust. A disease such as withgray rot with the only difference that, over time, gray spores appear on brown spots, provoking rot. For the treatment of plants from the listed diseases, it is advised to carry out their treatment with copper-containing preparations. In these cases, products such as colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid or soap emulsion will help. To prevent the appearance of fungal diseases, it is necessary to timely weed the weeds, on which pathogenic fungi often live, not to be zealous with watering the plants, which causes waterlogging of the soil and the appearance of rot, to loosen the soil to provide air access to the roots. In addition, experts and gardeners advise to regularly inspect plants in order to identify their signs at an early stage and prevent further spread.

If the diseases listed above are treatable, then the following infections, at the moment, are among the incurable.

One of these viruses is mosaic, which is characterized by the appearance of speckled patterns on the foliage. Similar symptoms, accompanied by deformation of the flower, have an infection such as aspermia... And when the plant begins to bloom, not reaching the desired height, most likely, it is affected dwarfism... If signs of these infections are found, the plants must be immediately dug up and burned. In order to prevent the appearance of these viruses, it is important to monitor the cleanliness of the trunk circle, since, in the overwhelming majority, insects living on weeds are carriers of infections.

Some insects are not only carriers of infections, but they themselves infect plants, harming the flower culture. Of these insect pests, most often, chrysanthemum is threatened nematodes... The danger of damage by these insects is that it is not possible to get rid of them. All that remains is to dig up and destroy the plant. The presence of nematodes is evidenced by spots with a mosaic pattern, which, over time, darkens. After digging up infected plants, the site must be treated with a drug such as Formalin. And plants growing nearby should be sprayed with Phosphamide.

Aphids that have settled on a chrysanthemum are also capable of causing considerable harm to plants. Larvae and adults feed on plant sap, thereby weakening it. As a result, the chrysanthemum stops growing and developing. With small volumes of damage, parts of the plant are simply removed. If the aphid has settled throughout the stem and leaf plates, then only treatment with insecticides, such as Actellika or Aktara, will help.

A similar harm to the plant is caused by a meadow bug. Having settled in the buds, it prevents them from opening, and the chrysanthemum does not bloom. In addition, since this insect feeds on plant sap, over time, the foliage of the bush dries up and dies, which, in the future, can lead to the death of the entire plant. To combat this pest, it is advised to treat the bushes with soapy solutions. And as a prevention of its appearance, spray with insecticides.

No less harm to chrysanthemums is caused by snails and slugs, eating everything that occurs in their path - shoots, leaves and flowers. To combat them, it is not recommended to use chemical preparations, but it is advised to do with their manual collection or the construction of various obstacles that do not allow them to get close to the plants. For example, some gardeners, around the perimeter of the bushes, dig in rims from plastic bottles, scatter cones, shells from nuts or eggs on the soil surface. Also, you can leave baits, the smell of which slimes and snails creep, and you just have to collect them.

Chrysanthemums: varieties and varieties

Pink daisy photo

Such a huge number of species of these plants, of course, requires ordering. And, despite their diversity, new, even more decorative species appear every year. Consider the various classifications of this flower culture, allowing you to better navigate when choosing plants.

To begin with, let's dwell on the most important characteristic for gardeners - the size of the inflorescences and the height of the bush.

Chrysanthemums are large-flowered, medium-flowered and small-flowered.

• Large-flowered plants are plants that reach a height of 1.2 -1.5 meters. The smallest diameter of the inflorescences in these species is at least 10 cm, and the largest is 25 cm. Most often, such chrysanthemums are grown for subsequent cutting and use in drawing up bouquets.

Large-flowered species are not too frost-resistant, however, through the efforts of breeders, varieties have recently appeared that winter well in indoor conditions.

These varieties include chrysanthemum Anastasia Green... This plant blooms in early October, dissolving lush, needle-like inflorescences of green-yellow color. In order for the plant to overwinter without loss, it should be provided with a reliable shelter.

Chrysanthemum is also cold-resistant. Zembla Lilak. Its double inflorescences of a pale pink color look very decorative due to the often located middle flowers and large reed flowers. The bush is also left to winter in the garden, constructing a shelter.

Chrysanthemum Tom Pierce begins to bloom in September, forming single-headed red-yellow spherical inflorescences with a diameter of at least 20 cm. This plant, like the previous varieties, is distinguished by good resistance to low temperatures, which allows the bush to winter in open ground.

• Mid-flowered chrysanthemums are distinguished, respectively, by the average height of the bush and the diameter of the inflorescences, which, as a rule, are 10-17 cm. Chrysanthemums of this type are suitable both for growing in the open field and are cultivated as pot crops.

One of the brightest representatives of this species is chrysanthemum Splashes of champagne. This plant belongs to bush chrysanthemums, growing up to 70-90 cm. Inflorescences are needle-like, up to 8-10 cm in diameter. The marginal and middle flowers are not too wide, and their arrangement, indeed, resembles a spray. Plants of this variety are very diverse in color, from pale pink to yellow-green shades. Chrysanthemum begins to bloom in October, and ends with the onset of frost. For the winter, the chrysanthemum bush is covered and left in the ground.

Chrysanthemum The Golden Fleece develops in the form of a compact bush, reaching a height of 40-60 cm. The inflorescences are painted in a rich orange-yellow color, just in tune with the colors of autumn, which accounts for the flowering of chrysanthemums. The plant can also be left in the garden for the winter, after covering it.

Pink daisy - it's also a bush chrysanthemum. The inflorescences are simple, with few flowers and a slightly convex receptacle. The diameter of the bright pink inflorescences is 5-8 cm. The chrysanthemum begins to bloom in September and pleases the eye with bright colors until the frost. It should be noted that this is one of the most frost-resistant varieties. However, in regions with very cold winters, it is still better to cover the plant.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are also called Korean chrysanthemums, and gardeners often call them "oaks" because of the external resemblance of the leaves to the leaf plates of oak. The height of the bushes varies from two tens of centimeters to almost half a meter. Their color is also varied. The diameter of the inflorescences is not large - from 2 to 10 cm, but their number is huge. Therefore, small-flowered chrysanthemums are not inferior in decorativeness to large-flowered species. And their long flowering is another factor that gardeners prefer when choosing plants.

• Among the small-flowered chrysanthemums, the most famous varieties are Slavyanochka and Etna.

During the flowering chrysanthemum Slavyanochka it is impossible to look away from the bush. The many pompom-shaped inflorescences, painted in pale pink tones, are an incomparable sight. The bush blooms in early autumn and decorates garden plots until the very frost.

Variety Etna are distinguished by needle-like inflorescences of lilac color, 5-8 cm in diameter. The bush itself grows no higher than 80 cm. Etna blooms in October.

Recently, another variety of small-flowered chrysanthemum is gaining popularity - Multiflora. This is a relatively new variety, which is distinguished by a fairly early flowering, starting in August. In addition, Multiflora is perfect for growing as a pot plant. The inflorescences of this variety have a spherical shape, and the number of colors is so diverse that they will satisfy the most demanding taste.

• In addition to size and height, chrysanthemums can also be classified according to the shape of the inflorescences.

This classification includes only two groups - simple and double inflorescences, but the number of subgroups is much larger.

For example, simple inflorescences are: anemic (varieties: Andre Rose, Beautiful Lady, Vivien), semi-double (varieties: Natasha, Baltika and Amazonka) and non-double (varieties: Pat Joice, Ben Dickson).

Terry the same inflorescences are presented in many different forms, including: spider-like (varieties Grazia and Spring Dawn); spherical (varieties: Broadway, Arctic); pompom (varieties: Bob, Denis); flat (varieties: Wally Ruf and Swan Song); hemispherical (varieties: Tresor, Zlata Praga and Gazella); radial (varieties: Tokyo, Pietro and Magdalena) and finally, folded (varieties: Tracy Waller and Regalia).

• Also, chrysanthemums are classified according to their flowering time. Early flowering plants bloom in late August - early September.

Among the most famous of the early flowering chrysanthemums are varieties such as Handsom, Deliana and Zembla Yellow... The last of the listed varieties forms large spherical inflorescences with a rich yellow color. Chrysanthemum Deliana forms snow-white needle-like inflorescences with a diameter of at least 15 cm. And the plant of the Handsom variety resembles daisies, which have a beautiful lilac-white color.

Chrysanthemums with an average flowering period, presented by varieties such as Froggy, Anastasia lil and Orange. Their bloom begins in October. The name of the variety Orange, rather, is due to the spherical shape of the inflorescences, the diameter of which is at least 20 cm. The inflorescences are painted in a bright yellow color.

And here is the grade Froggy (Frog) just, quite consistent with the greenish color of the inflorescences and their small size.

Chrysanthemum Anastasia lil forms needle-like large inflorescences, up to 20 cm in diameter, painted in a beautiful lilac color.

Late flowering chrysanthemums bloom only in November, when the weather in many regions, rather, corresponds to the winter period. Therefore, such plants are more common in warm, southern regions. Among the late-flowering chrysanthemums, the most decorative varieties are Larissa, Rivardi and Avignon... The last two varieties have rather large spherical inflorescences, yellow and pink in color. And the inflorescence of the Larisa variety is very reminiscent of chamomile, both in shape and in color.

Finally, chrysanthemums are classified according to their growing season. This flower culture is represented by both annuals and perennials.

Slavyanochka photo

It should be noted that the climatic features of most regions, nevertheless, are more conducive to the cultivation of annual chrysanthemums. Therefore, it is these plants that are most popular among gardeners.

A very common annual is tricolor chrysanthemum (keeled). It is a short and fairly branched bush with a thick stem. The diameter of the inflorescences can be from 5 cm to 7 cm, and in shape they are simple, semi-double and double. Chrysanthemum is called tricolor for a reason. Varieties of this type are painted in white, yellow and red colors of various shades and are presented in many options for their combinations. The most famous varieties include Kokard, Nordstern and Flammenstahl. Their flowering continues from June to early autumn.

Another popular species is sowing chrysanthemum (field chrysanthemum). This annual plant, like the previous one, develops as a very spreading bush. Moreover, its height does not exceed half a meter. The inflorescences are similar to daisies, their diameter is only 3-5 cm. Most varieties of this species are painted in yellow shades. The most decorative varieties of field chrysanthemums are Stern de Orients, Helio, Tetra comets and Chrysanthemum corona. It should be noted that the last variety is distinguished by the height of the bush, which can reach 1 meter.

The vast majority of the previously listed species and varieties can be classified as perennial plants.

Outcome

The above classification of chrysanthemums is, of course, not complete.Indeed, today, the number of varieties of this flower culture is in the thousands. However, for amateur gardeners, it will be quite enough to understand the variety of chrysanthemum varieties and make the right choice.