Hyacinth care: simple and proper care during and after flowering
Content:
How to avoid the most dangerous parasites and diseases of hyacinth? What to do with a faded plant? How to store the crop? Hyacinth care: everything is simply and clearly described in this article.
Hyacinth care: briefly about planting and basic care
After the snow melts, powerful cones of sprouts can be seen. We remove the canopy or any other protection for plants from winter frosts, we add nitrogen or complex fertilizer purchased from a specialized flower shop to the soil layer. At this point, also loosen the soil, if the soil requires watering, moisten it. Take a good look at the bulbs that have not germinated. Most likely, they became infected and remained sick in the soil all this time. Feel free to burn them, as there is nowhere else to use them. At the moment when buds begin to appear, apply mineral fertilizer.
After completing the flowering process, you should not finish caring for hyacinths, as the growth of the flower arrow and leaves continues, and the bulb accumulates nutrients. If you want to help the bulb, you can add a mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to the soil. Do not forget about top dressing. Hyacinth directs all forces to the growth of leaves and the flowering process, it has little time to restore strength and energy. If there are no nutrients left in the bulb, there will be no flowering process.
It is recommended to help the plant in this way: Flowers that have withered must be processed, the peduncles are left intact. Flowers are removed with a simple bottom-up movement.
Loosen the soil regularly, there should be no weeds in the area with hyacinths. It is not worth increasing the watering process, but every time you water the flowers, the amount of water should be abundant. Warm water should penetrate fifteen to twenty cm deep into the soil. During the bud formation and flowering processes, watering is the most important care. During particularly dry weather, it is worth watering the flowers so that they do not open prematurely and quickly fade. For bulbs, watering is also important during this period, as drought reduces their size. At the end of the flowering process, water the plants for fourteen days, gradually decreasing. But only if there was no rain all this time.
Hyacinth care: various diseases and parasites
There are several diseases and parasites dangerous for hyacinths:
- Yellow rot.
This is the most famous and common disease in this plant. Hyacinths continue to grow, but the appearance of strange lines and watery spots on the leaves, which eventually acquire a yellow or brown color, indicates the appearance of this disease. The bulb at this moment begins to rot, its plates form an incomprehensible substance with a disgusting odor. How to get rid of this? Unfortunately, we have not yet come up with an effective remedy. It is necessary to get the plant out of the ground and burn it; it is better to water the place left after burning an infected plant with a solution of bleach or potassium permanganate.
- Gray rot.
Fungal disease, you can notice it in cool weather. Small and yellow spots indicate that the plant is infected with gray mold. The leaves begin to turn brown, become larger and have a dark coating. Then, over time, they acquire a yellow color, dry out and sometimes disappear. The bulb rots at this moment. How to deal with this? During storage, carefully examine and process the bulbs.Unfortunately, the infected plant will have to be destroyed.
- Fusarium.
One of the most dangerous diseases. When the shell of the bulb changes, namely the acquisition of a brown color and cracked skin, we can safely say that the plant has become infected with fusarium. The roots begin the process of decay. If you dig up the bulbs, you will notice spots of brown and yellow color on the plates, which harden over time. Spores of the fungus are formed in the bulb, the plates have a light bloom and "wrinkles", then the bulb becomes softer. How to deal with this?
You need to plant and dig up the bulbs on time, then dry them and keep them at the right temperature, every year you need to change the planting site.
- Hoverflies (lumpy, onion) and flower flies.
These insects are the most common of all other parasites. The larvae hibernate in the ground or on a bulb; they start their flight in late spring - early summer. The larvae themselves emerge from eggs that were once laid in the ground near hyacinths. They eat the onion from the bottom. How to deal with this? Before planting hyacinths, use wood ash and sand to sink into the planting hole. Do not forget that the soil must be constantly loosened. Most often, insects do not use loose soil for laying eggs. Immerse the bulbs in boiling water for sixty minutes before planting. Infected plants - burn or discard.
What if the plant has faded?
When the upper part of the plant dies off, a live bulb still remains in the soil. Be careful with her, as inflorescences appear there. The bulb should be allowed to bask in the sun or light for six months. Unfortunately, in our climate, it is not possible to warm it up naturally, and we have to create a light source for hyacinths on our own. Don't forget to increase the temperature too. Remove the bulbs from the ground, take a close look and determine if there are signs of illness or not. In the middle of summer, the leaves become lethargic, acquire a yellow color. You need to dig up the bulbs on a day when it will definitely not rain. If you do not dig them up, the plant will flourish for another year with weakened peduncles, small flowers. After you dig up the bulbs, you should peel and dry them. After a week, remove the plates that come off the bulb.
Hyacinth care: bulb storage
The earlier hyacinths grow, the longer they are at rest. For the first time, you can plant hyacinth in the semblance of a greenhouse or greenhouse, and after flowering, remove the building. Dig up the bulbs in early summer. First, we store them for fourteen days at a temperature of around thirty-five degrees, then for sixty days at twenty-five degrees, move them to a well-ventilated room in paper