Brussels sprouts - cultivation and care in Siberia and the Urals
Content:
Brussels sprouts are native to Belgium. After, the plant began to actively spread in the rest of Europe. The vegetable contains a huge amount of nutrients and is also very tasty. Brussels sprouts are consumed both fresh and used to prepare various dishes, as well as make preparations for the winter. Brussels sprouts - cultivation, all the subtleties and features are described in this article
Brussels sprouts: cultivation and varietal variety
This culture is divided into three types of varieties.
Early ripe. Franklin F1 - Harvested in four months. Dolmik F1 is the most successful option for the Ural region and Siberia. The length of the stem does not exceed 60 cm, the heads of cabbage have a color closer to light green.
Mid-season varieties. Rosella is characterized by an impressive harvest, Cassio also has good fertility.
Late maturing varieties of Brussels sprouts. Hercules 1342, Dallik, Zavitka - all these varieties are distinguished by good resistance to frost and some diseases.
Successful open field cultivation of Brussels sprouts, conditions
The key to a good harvest of heads of cabbage in the fall is the right choice of planting site. Brussels sprouts love light, sunny places, neutral or slightly acidic soil, it is better if it is loam. Legumes, pumpkin seeds, and tomatoes will be good predecessors of the plant.
If you plant seedlings of Brussels sprouts in the place where cruciferous plants grew before, then the plant may be sick.
Landing
Since the fruits of Brussels sprouts ripen slowly, it is necessary to grow it in the Urals and Siberia only through seedlings.
Cabbage seeds germinate at a temperature of 3 degrees. If the temperature is higher, then the seedlings will appear much faster. Seedling containers must be filled with soil, which will necessarily include peat, turf, as well as ash and mineral fertilizers. It is better not to use the soil from the site, as it may contain pathogens. You can plant seedlings in the second half of April. The seeds are placed in holes no more than 2 cm deep.
Seedlings should be watered regularly, but do not overdo it, as too much water will kill the plants. When about 5 true leaves appear on the seedlings, you can plant seedlings on the site. This is approximately mid-May, and in cold regions, where return frosts are characteristic, it is worth postponing the procedure to June.
The Brussels sprouts must be prepared in advance. In the fall, fertilizers are added: humus, chalk, ash and nitrophoska. Everything, as it should, must be dug up and leveled. With this preparation, during planting of seedlings, fertilizer does not need to be added to the wells themselves. For the prevention of keels and other diseases common for this culture, it is necessary to shed the garden with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The seedlings should be carefully removed from the pot, leaving a large lump of earth on the root system, then plant the bushes on the garden bed, keeping a distance of 60 cm between the seedlings. The soil must be compacted so that the plant sits firmly in the soil. Since Brussels sprouts have a long growing season, so as not to occupy the garden bed, other vegetables or herbs can also be planted between the rows.
Brussels sprouts: cultivation and proper care
Plant care is carried out on the basis of cauliflower care. The only thing that is not needed is to huddle the given culture. You need to water the cabbage as the soil dries. As a rule, this is no more than 10 times per season. During the formation of heads of cabbage, watering should be done more abundantly.
Fertilizing Brussels sprouts is necessary only with mineral fertilizers, organic fertilizers will not work here. So, a week after the plant was transplanted into open ground, it should be fertilized with nitroammophos. Then, when the plant grows up a little, and the heads of cabbage begin to tie, the cabbage should be fed again, adding potassium sulfate and superphosphate to the solution, in addition to nitroammophoska.
You can use another solution, namely potassium chloride, a little superphosphate, a couple of grams of urea. Before each feeding, it is necessary to water the plants, and then fertilize.
When the heads of cabbage have already formed and about a month is left before harvesting, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the plants, and also remove the rosette leaves. All this is done with the aim of improving the nutrition of the fruit. When the main leaves turn yellow on the heads of cabbage, this indicates that the plant is ready to harvest.
As it turned out, this type of cabbage does not require much effort and can be grown not only in warm regions, but also in the Urals and Siberia.